Our last evening in Poland just before boarding the place for Israel continued to be the emotional roller coaster that had captured our hearts, minds, and souls. We debriefed, discussed, and even disagreed on our thoughts and opinions about the past, present, and future. Once we boarded the plane, there became a sudden rush of anticipation. The adrenalin kicked in as we landed in Israel in a few short hours. It truly was going from the deepest, darkest depth of despair to the highest and brightest place you could be.
We started out at the top of Jerusalem as the sun was rising to say the “shehecheyanu.” I felt such a joy and I also loved seeing and hearing the wonderful reactions of those in our group who were experiencing Israel for the very first time. After a very short rest, we joined all those preparing for Shabbat in the Machane Yehuda market. The crowds, even with the pushing and shoving was worth it as we made our way to the world famous Marzipan bakery. Scott, I bought you a huge container of chocolate rugelach!
Some went with Muki, our guide, for lunch, and some of us joined Rabbi Berkun at his favorite place, “Pinati.” It was like heaven gobbling up hummus and pita on the streets of Jerusalem. Now it is time for a little pre-Shabbat shopping! My first and most important shopping mission was to find a tallit for my adult Bat Mitzvah which is scheduled for Shavuot 2008. With the help and approval of Susan, Bonnie, and Rabbi Berkun, mission accomplished!
Posted by Bonnie Seligson
I personally have already gone from the darkness to the light.
After the most incredible Friday night service at one of Rabbi Berkun's favorite synagogues in Jerusalem ("Shira Chadashah"), we made our way back to the hotel for a shabbat dinner. Eight Israeli members of my family joined me at this dinner. I told Sharon as we made our way back to the hotel that I did not know how I would be able to talk to my family... I was so mentally and physically exhausted from the darkness I had experienced in Poland. I feard I would fall asleep in the soup at dinner. As soon as we walked into the hotel, my family was waiting for me. From that moment on, my energy revived and I spent the next 4.5 hours in the "brightest light" I have ever known.
Posted by Linda & Steve Jacobson
For all of you who are following our footsteps, we landed safely in Tel Aviv at 4:30 a.m. this morning. I am so happy to be "home" in Jerusalem, I'm not tired at all. Steve, on the other hand, is snoring on the bed. It's 3:45 in the afternoon, we got about 2 hours of sleep on the 3 1/2 hour plane ride, I made him accompany me, along with Jeremy Pappas, on a walk through the Old City, up Jaffa Road, (for those of you who don't know the terrain, it's a lot of uphill climbing), a quick (okay, long because it was crowded) stop at Khalifa shoes to buy some new Naot clogs and sandals for Marni (and receive the complimentary high quality clicky pens with the store name . . . good cuz I lost my old one), continued up Jaffa Road to cut across to Yoel Solomon Street to purchase a Bat Mitzvah gift for a family friend (Betsy and DeDe, that info's for you), continued up Ben Yehuda to say hello to one of our shopkeeper friends, and then 
on to Mahane Yehuda. Are you all out of breath yet, because my feet are now so swollen that they're killing me, but I'm not the one snoring on the bed, just for the record.Mahane Yehuda is the open air market, where you can buy anything from spices to candy, raw chicken, cooked chicken, fresh fish still swimming in little buckets, rugelach (the best in the world), fresh orange juice (shared a jug with Jeremy and Steve), and just about anything you can think of in between. We now have the newest flavor mentos that comes in a hard cardboard flip-top box - black licorice, and a full box plus some loose rolls of pink grapefruit flavored mentos. ( a family favorite, and for anyone counting, that's upwards of 40 rolls . . . gotta have 'em) We passed on the rugelach, sorry kids, but: a) too heavy to bring
home another 20 pounds and b) it would be sitting around for 5 days before we even fly home. The mold factor was not on our side, so we'll have to come back again, or settle for less than adequate look-alikes at home. The next stop, thankfully all downhill, was for schwarma (not me, not my style), falafel (that'd be me), some diet cokes and water. After walking for 2 1/2 hours, I finally convinced Jeremy to get a HAIRCUT . . . (this one's for you Robinson family. . . at Marcel's). Gotta tell you all there were about 8 inches of curls on the floor, and a handsome looking person under that ridiculous mop when he was finished. Haircut was on us, tip was on him.Continuing on our back breaking journey(which now included two shoe boxes in one bag,
48 rolls of mentos, quite heavy, actually, one Bat Mitzvah gift - - can't say what it is right now, a huge bag of popcorn for Steve -- only 6 shekels, quite a bargain for stuff that looks like cardboard, and a 6-pack of water bottles from the Supersol up the street) we are now in the hotel, where I need shower number 2 of the day because I'm so sweaty from shlepping around (genetic misfortune, father's side I think), Steve's snoring (and argued with me over when to START his 24 hour internet time so as to maximize it completely . . . I told him I'd spring for the next 24, SPORT), I'm trying to keep in touch, thinking about my next shower, (which will probably happen sometime between now and 4:15, cuz we're going to the Kotel together), 
the walk (oy) to shul (might skip that if the legs and feet are still so swollen), the ridiculously large Shabbat dinner buffet that I know will be downstairs, and the bottle of wine that I sure hope is on the table so I can drink some and actually fall asleep. It seems that cat naps on the bus are quite detrimental to night-time sleeping, or, I should clarify, falling asleep before 1 or later. That's why I'm the one awake right now, while the main man is out cold.I should mention for a moment, in all seriousness, the view of Jerusalem at dawn after returning from such an intensely horrifying historical journey. It is truly a blessing to be here and one I will not be taking for granted, especially since I'm pretty certain (it's been confirmed) that there are no more long vacations again for a while.
Posted by Mark Bello
Today, we arrive in the Promised Land. More irony; we arrive in the “light” part of our trip at 4:30 AM, in total darkness. After luggage and bus arrangements are made, we travel from Ben Gurion Airport, which, we discover, has been recently renovated in a project called “2000”. When was it finished, you ask? In 2004. Because of a drop in tourism caused by terrorist activities and war, the project was delayed, abandoned and, finally, when tourism returned, completed. It is wonderful to hear that tourism has returned to pre-intifada numbers.
We travel to the Tayelet where people come to view the beautiful city of Jerusalem from “on high.” The view is, indeed, breathtaking and we share wine, fruit and nuts, then daven the morning service as the sun rises over the city and glimmers off the golden dome of the rock. The experience is heavenly. Muki points out that Jerusalem is divided into three valleys and provides a detailed history lesson. It is difficult to leave this place, but we return to the bus and take the short ride to our hotel.After breakfast, I take a walk up King David Street (I think) and I encounter two very beautiful parks, Bloomfield Park (coincidentally the name of my subdivision at home) and Liberty Bell Park. The parks are set amid trees, flowers, lawn and beautiful white natural rock formations. Individual gardens are adorned with dedication plaques, one of which read “Donated by Max Fisher and Alfred Taubman, Detroit, MI”. These men are Shaarey Zedek legends. A basketball court is host to a lively game and teachers hold class in the various garden sections. I encounter a residential neighborhood, built into the park; a monument declares it to be the first residential neighborhood built outside of the Old City and indicates that it was successfully defended by the Hagana, from attack, in the 1930’s. An observation point affords a beautiful view of the Old City and the Chapel of Ascension. It is getting really hot out here, but it sure is gorgeous.
The group next meets in the lobby (after a rest, for most) and we take the bus to the market. I have been there before, but the market takes on new meaning for me as I realize that the hustle-bustle atmosphere, the shouts from vendors, the bargaining, the madness of it all must have been what Jewish pre-war Poland was like. It is certainly wonderful to see these signature traditions of European Jewry have not been wiped out. The rugelach (chocolate and cinnamon) are delicious and I sip on a fresh squeezed orange juice. Next we visit Ben Yehuda street for a falafel lunch. My wife is in heaven because she can eat meat out!
I look around me; almost everyone is Jewish! What a wonderful feeling and what a wonderful place to be a Jew. This stands in stark contrast to the Polish experience where almost all Jews are gone with few signs to indicate the existence of any modern Jewish life. No “Jude Rause” in Israel.
After an hour or so of rest (I have not slept for more than an hour in the last 36 hours), we assemble again. This time we are at the Western Wall.
This is my third trip to Israel, and while “Jewishness” surrounds you everywhere, the Wall is different. Here, you can sense the presence of G-d and history. However you choose to believe, one fact is very clear: The Wall has been standing for over 2000 years and centuries of people have stood and prayed at the very spot we are standing upon. It is really quite a thrilling experience. I have also been paying some attention to my friend, Jules Olsman’s first experience in Israel and at the wall. He is having the time of his life and I am getting a huge kick out of sharing it with him.We return to the hotel and walk to Shul, not just any shul, but a modern orthodox minyan called "Shira Chadashah," where the woman and men sit apart, but have equal access to the bima, which is divided by a sheer curtain. The atmosphere is crackling and joyful and all attendees happily participate in the most upbeat service I have ever attended. Various members, young and old, take turns leading the services. The entire congregation joins in singing at the top of its voice, clapping, stamping feet and snapping fingers. The atmosphere is contagious and I find myself singing loudly, tapping my feet, and slapping my thigh. A good time was had by all; how often can we say that about a religious service?
We walk back to the hotel, together, and enjoy a wonderful Shabbat buffet. Bonnie Seligson brings her great uncle’s family to dinner. She is very proud to have them there and I am excited for her; she swears that one young boy is going to be a future prime minister of Israel.
I have now been awake for 37 of the past 40 hours; tomorrow is Shabbat and I am taking a well deserved rest. We are supposed to take an “education walk” tomorrow at 5:00 PM.
Thanks,
Mark
Here is a link to pictures from today: http://picasaweb.google.com/jonberkun/Day5IsraelMay4JerusalemAndMachanehYehudah
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